Orange Splash

1/160 sec, f/8.0, ISO 100, 100mm (162mm eqv.), tripod, flash View Original

Fairly simple setup here. Alain recently got a new flash, a Yongnuo YN-560. That's it on the right @ ~1/16. My Sunpak 622 on the left @ 1/128 power. Both covered to protect from the splashing. We made quite a mess. That's foam flooring underlay on the sides of the fish tank to defuse the light.

Smashing Bottles

My friend Alain had the great idea to try to get photos of smashing bottles. He supplied the room, bottles, lens, and just about everything else. I brought my flash and rigged up a way to trigger it when the hammer was in just the right spot. Here's the results:

All photos were taken in bulb mode at f/7.1 and ISO 100.

Not all bottles are as easy to break with a hammer as you'd think. There was one kind that seemed to be much thicker glass than the rest and would just bounce off the hammer and put dents in the wall. We finally figured out that taping a screw to the hammer would concentrate the force better. The first photo above is the result of this.

At first we were thinking that we would trigger the shutter to release as soon as the bottle breaks, but then realized that we'd have to compensate for the split second it takes for the mirror to flip up. We wanted to be able to trigger both cameras at the same time and it's likely that they don't have the same shutter delay. Also, we didn't have a connector for Alain's camera. So we changed our plan and decided we'd trigger the flash instead. This worked much better. We'd get set up and turn out the lights, then open the shutter on each camera, then release the hammer. As soon as the hammer hit the bottle and moved part way through it, the flash would fire and expose the frame. I believe the flash duration at 1/64 is 1/15,000 of a second so there's no problem freezing the motion.

Our makeshift trigger system worked much more easily than I thought it would. It actually worked the very first try! We were able to make very fine adjustments so we could control exactly how far through the bottle the hammer would be before the flash fired. To trigger a flash all you need is to touch two wires together. I had a PC cord that was plugged into my wireless flash trigger. I soldered two wires to the other end of the PC cord and then soldered a thick twist-tie to each wire. We used thumb tacks to fasten the twist-ties to the hammer support (seen below) at the pivot, one on each side, so when the hammer swung, the two would touch. As soon as the flash fired we'd close the shutters again so that when the hammer swang back again, we wouldn't get a double exposure when the flash fired again.

Bee

1/125 sec, f/16, 50mm + extension tubes, tripod, lit w/ Sunpak 622 @ 1/64 power hand-held above through wax paper with reflectors on either side


1/125 sec, f/16, 40mm + extension tubes, tripod, lit w/ Sunpak 622 @ 1/64 power hand-held above through wax paper
View Original

Behind the Scenes

Here's our little studio. The white paper was used as reflectors, wax paper was set across the two reflectors to defuse the light and the flash was held, by hand, above the wax paper.

The second photo is a composite of about 20 photos. Since the depth of field is so narrow, I took many photos adjusting the focus between each one and then pasted together all the in-focus parts of each photo. It could be better.

All the orange bits is pollen from the flower.

Apples

I'm trying to get back into taking more pictures and updating this blog more often. My wife was out and Reuben was in bed a couple days ago so if I was going to do anything it had to be inside. This is what I ended up with. For more info, check out Behind the Scenes

1/125 sec, f/36.4, ISO 100, 35mm (56mm eqv.), hand-held, SunPak 622 @1/128 power ~12cm above, slight right.
View Original


1/125 sec, f/28.1, ISO 100, 55mm (88mm eqv.), hand-held, SunPak 622 @1/128 power ~12cm above, slight right
View Original

1/125 sec, f/36.4, ISO 100, 55mm (88mm eqv.), hand-held, SunPak 622 @1/128 power ~12cm above, slight right
View Original

Behind the Scenes

Here's a shot exposed for the ambient light in the room. The apple was (badly) edited, otherwise that area would have been completely blown-out (totally white). It was about 7:45 in the evening so sunlight was still coming in the windows. The ambient was quite bright, I had to close down my aperture quite a bit (f/28 and 36) to block out the window light. With the flash so close, about 10 - 15 cm, 1/128th power was enough to properly expose the apple at that aperture. The flash was actually in the shot for the first one and needed to be edited out. A spray bottle was used to add the water droplets.

In the first photo, you can see that the table reflects some light back up to the lower part of the apple. For the second photo, I wanted the lower part of the apple to go completely black so I found a blouse (I think that's what it's called) in my wife's closet that's made of a black, fuzzy, light-absorbing material and set the apple on it as you can see in the photo below. This killed the reflected light. In the last photo, the apple was on a white piece of paper.

Splash!

1/160 sec
f/19
55mm (35mm eqv. 88mm)
ISO 200
lighting: Sunpak 622 Super Pro @ 1/128 power on camera left, reflecting off a white background

1/160 sec
f/14
55mm (35mm eqv. 88mm)
ISO 200
lighting: Sunpak 622 Super Pro @ 1/128 power on camera left, reflecting off a white background

Behind the Scenes

Update:
Actually, the camera in the picture is Alain's 50D with a 50mm f/1.4, but the pictures above were taken with my XSi (450D)

Where Have I Been?

It's been a while since my last post. Things have been a little slow around here lately since I pulled a muscle in my back a week ago and was confined to the couch for about four days. I'm mobile now, but not quite back to normal.

In other news, I'm starting a new job today so it's hard to say how much time I'll have for pictures. The first little while may be stressful, but I'll get something new someday.

I had to go back a ways to find a picture for today. I'm a computer programmer by day. I have a friend who has recently started a website (http://maritimes-jug.ca/) for programmers in my area who are using a programming language called Java. He mentioned to me that he'd like some sort of Java related image to put in the header of the site. It didn't take me long to come up with an idea for an image. Java could also mean coffee, which many programmers seem to run on, although I never picked up the habit. I thought mixing the two would be fitting.

Behind the scenes

Here's the original, unedited photo. I should have took a picture of the whole setup too, but I did not.

1.3 sec
f/8.0
ISO 400
18mm (35mm eqv. 28.8)
ambient lighting

I used a polarizing filter to get as much reflection off the coffee as I could. I wanted to have some bubbles and maybe some steam coming off the coffee, but with an exposure of more then a second, that wasn't possible. I tried using a straw to blow some bubbles, but they would pop during the exposure, moving the remaining bubbles and making ripples that would blur the reflection. I would have needed to add more light, which I didn't have.

For the reflection, I wrote a simple program (all it does is print "Maritimes JUG" on the screen). The different colours are done automatically by the text editor to help programmers read it easier and point out potential errors. Then I took a screenshot by pressing the "Print Screen" button on my keyboard and pasted the screenshot into GIMP and flipped it up-side-down so that it would appear right-side-up in the reflection.

I had two pieces of computer paper in front of the mug to reflect more light back up to the mug to light the side a little more.

As far as editing, it's hard to say. It was a while ago and I didn't write anything down. I know that it was cropped :) Other then that, your guess is as good as mine. Looks to me like the white balance was cooled down a bit to get a whiter keyboard, which also made the light part of the reflection in the coffee more blueish. More work to make the keyboard whiter should have been done. Then a curves adjustment to brighten the highlights quite a bit and darken the shadows just a little to bump up the contrast. Then the blur tool to smoothen out the vertical-ish lines above "String args[]" in the reflection. I'm noticing now that I was a little sloppy and blurred the tail of the "g" in "Jug{". I'm such a slob! Looks like the mouse cursor is just below "println", must have cloned that out. Then a little sharpening with the unsharp mask. And lastly a vignetting type thing to darken the left and right sides a bit to bring the viewer's attention to the reflection. I think that's it.

Kiwange

1/50 and 1/80 sec, f/5.7, ISO 400, 55mm (35mm eqv. 88mm), hand-held, halogen lighting and a little on-camera flash for the orange

This is another joint effort with Alain.

Behind the Scenes

Musical Punch Bowl

Sorry, things have been slow on the blog lately. I just need a break every now and then.

Here's an example of my playing around with a technique called shaped bokeh. I think I have the technical part down, but I haven't really come up with anything too inspiring yet. There's lots of tutorials out there explaining how to do this so instead of taking the time to write another one, just to make myself look smart, I'll direct you to the one I used: http://www.diyphotography.net/diy_create_your_own_bokeh.

1-20 sec, f/1.8 (well that's what the camera was set to, I guess to find what it really was you'd have to calculate the area of the music note shape and then find what the diameter of a circle with the same area would be, then divide that into the focal-length), ISO 800, 50mm (35mm eqv. 81mm)

Behind the Scenes

Canon PowerShot A510, 1.6 sec, f/2.6, ISO 50, 5.8mm (35mm eqv. 37mm)

You may notice I made a couple adjustments that are not in the tutorial. First, I made it easier to add different shapes without having to make a holder for each one. And second, I didn't have any black paper that would block out all light, so I used aluminum foil with cardboard to hold it in place. I figured that this would also allow me to have cleaner edges than paper would. However, the foil is much more delicate, I think.